By Olivier Gosset | L'Echo
The Walloon biotech startup Kokuma is developing natural ingredients to replace harmful substances currently used in cosmetics that alter skin pigmentation. Its developments are progressing rapidly.
Kokuma, a startup based in Charleroi, is taking on an ambitious challenge: replacing controversial cosmetic ingredients that modify skin pigmentation with safe, natural alternatives. While the intersection of biotechnology and beauty is still a relatively untapped sector, Kokuma aims to bring scientific innovation into the cosmetics industry.
"We apply biotech innovation methods to develop new active ingredients for cosmetic applications," explains Alexandre Jouve, CEO and co-founder of Kokuma, headquartered in the BioPark Charleroi.
The startup's mission is to replace ingredients in two major categories of skin-tone-modifying cosmetics: brightening products and their opposites, self-tanning products. "Our goal is to develop safe ingredients that regulate melanin synthesis in the skin," Jouve explains.
The demand for depigmenting solutions is significant, with a global market estimated at €10 billion. However, many existing depigmenting products contain toxic substances. "Many people use depigmenting treatments to lighten their skin, but these products often contain tyrosinase inhibitors that have been progressively banned due to their toxicity. This is a real public health issue," Jouve adds.
For two years, Kokuma has been working on a new mechanism of action. Using artificial intelligence (AI), the company has identified a breakthrough skin-brightening ingredient capable of reducing dark spots and age-related pigmentation—without any toxic side effects.
This natural molecule, derived from plant extracts, has been tested in vitro, showing an 86% reduction in melanin production. "We’ve already seen promising results in ex vivo studies on human skin explants, using donor skin samples to validate efficacy," Jouve explains.
The regulatory process for cosmetics is much faster than for pharmaceuticals, which could accelerate commercialization. Kokuma has already launched a three-month clinical study in France with 60 participants, divided into test and placebo groups. If results confirm the ingredient’s efficacy and safety, it could be approved for industry use by late 2025. Major cosmetics labs would then need 18 to 24 months to integrate it into their formulations.
Kokuma is also developing an alternative to current self-tanning products. This second natural ingredient is designed to double the skin’s melanin production without UV exposure, providing a safer, long-lasting tan compared to traditional self-tanners. Unlike DHA-based self-tanners, which create a temporary tan via a chemical reaction, Kokuma’s solution stimulates natural melanin production, offering a more natural and enduring effect.
Both innovations are advancing in parallel, and major cosmetic brands have already expressed interest, particularly in the depigmenting ingredient.
Despite its small team of three, Kokuma brings together high-level expertise from biotech, pharma, and cosmetics:
Kokuma has received early support from The Butterfly Fund (BioPark’s startup fund), Sambrinvest, business angels, and the Walloon Region. The company is now preparing a new funding round to expand its team and accelerate product development.
"We have plenty of ideas, but launching two groundbreaking innovations back-to-back is already quite an achievement," Jouve concludes.
✔ Kokuma applies biotech innovation to cosmetics, developing next-gen active ingredients.
✔ The startup’s most ambitious project is a natural alternative to toxic skin brighteners.
✔ A second innovation aims to replace traditional self-tanners with a melanin-boosting formula.
✔ Faster regulatory pathways could bring these breakthroughs to market quickly.
