With the backing of key financial partners like Sambrinvest, Belgian biotech startup Kokuma is preparing to revolutionize hyperpigmentation treatment and sun exposure effects with two groundbreaking active ingredients.
Founded in 2022 and based in the Brussels South Charleroi Biopark, Kokuma bridges expertise from medtech, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics to develop safe and effective solutions for skin health.
Kokuma’s journey began with a pivotal collaboration. Two years ago, Yannick Quesnel, an expert in chemistry and biopharma, approached Alexandre Jouve, a biotech veteran and chemist, with the idea of developing new active ingredients for cosmetics. Alexandre was immediately on board.
Skin tone modification is a global phenomenon, particularly in Asia and Western markets, where millions of people use depigmenting products for cultural or aesthetic reasons, including the removal of age spots. However, many of these products contain dangerous ingredients such as hydroquinone, which, despite being banned in several countries, remains available through illicit channels. Its use often leads to severe burns and irreversible skin damage.
Recognizing the urgent need for a safe alternative, Alexandre and Yannick co-founded Kokuma in 2022. Later, Olivier Fontaine, a former executive at L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, and Pierre Fabre, joined to bring his expertise in health and skincare standards.
Unlike traditional tyrosinase inhibitors, which block melanin synthesis aggressively, Kokuma’s approach works in harmony with the skin’s natural biological processes, ensuring safety and efficacy.
Kokuma has successfully developed two breakthrough ingredients, targeting opposite skin concerns while addressing two major public health issues—toxic depigmenting products and the risks of excessive sun exposure.
✅ Tonasulike-D: A natural compound designed to reduce melanin production by up to 86% (in in-vitro tests) and validated in ex-vivo studies. This breakthrough offers a safer alternative to toxic depigmenting products, addressing a €10 billion market.
✅ Tonasulike-P: A clinically validated ingredient that doubles melanin production without sun exposure, providing a natural, long-lasting glow while eliminating the risks of UV damage. It is the first-ever melanin booster that functions without UV exposure.
With the tagline “Tone as You Like”, Kokuma empowers consumers to safely and effectively choose their preferred skin tone.
To develop these unique solutions, Kokuma leveraged AI to identify new and unexplored mechanisms of action.
"We used AI for predicting efficacy, skin penetration, and physicochemical properties. These techniques are routine in biotech but not yet widely applied in the cosmetics industry. AI is integrated at multiple stages of our R&D process," explains Alexandre Jouve.
However, AI-driven research must be carefully managed, as it often reinforces existing scientific consensus. To discover truly novel ingredients, the challenge lies in moving beyond conventional findings to identify new, uncharted solutions.
Kokuma started as an ambitious idea, making it a bold bet for early investors. However, the team’s expertise and strategic vision quickly convinced Sambrinvest, the Biopark Butterfly Fund, the Walloon Region, and multiple business angels to support the company’s growth.
"Kokuma is leveraging Wallonia’s biotechnology expertise to drive groundbreaking innovations in skincare. Alongside the Butterfly Fund, we strongly believe in their disruptive approach and high growth potential. Their sustainable and effective solutions address a concrete market need while tackling a major public health issue," shares Elisabeth de Halleux, Investment Manager at Sambrinvest and Kokuma Board Member.
Kokuma’s rapid progress has validated investor confidence, something that deeply motivates Alexandre:
"What excites me about the cosmetics sector is how much faster development cycles are compared to biotech. We apply the same rigorous R&D techniques, but the ability to bring innovations to market quickly is incredibly rewarding."
With its ingredients validated, Kokuma is now preparing for a new funding round to support its expansion. The startup aims to recruit top talent, develop new programs, and launch commercialization efforts.
With two pioneering products ready for market entry and a cutting-edge methodology, Kokuma is poised to set a new benchmark in the beauty biotech space—both in Belgium and globally.
