By Emilie Van de Poel
November 14, 2024
Kokuma, an innovative Belgian company in the cosmetics industry, is set to revolutionize beauty formulations by combining biotechnology, artificial intelligence (AI), and skin cell biology.
The startup's mission is to transform skincare solutions with an ingredient that enhances natural tanning based on scientific advancements in melanin synthesis and cellular biology.
Kokuma’s story began in 2022, when three industry experts from cosmetics and pharmaceuticals came together to find natural and effective ingredients capable of naturally influencing melanin production. After years of research and experimentation, they made a breakthrough discovery, leading to completely new and cutting-edge cosmetic solutions.
Leveraging advanced technological tools like artificial intelligence, Kokuma’s team developed TONASULIKE-P, a patented active ingredient that has already been clinically validated.
TONASULIKE-P is an active ingredient that naturally boosts melanin production, resulting in a more even, radiant complexion or a healthy glow effect. Studies conducted by Kokuma have demonstrated a 109% increase in melanin levels in ex-vivo models.
Additionally, compared to UV-exposed control groups, human skin samples treated with TONASULIKE-P doubled melanin production using this innovative ingredient.
Yannick Quesnel, Chief Scientific Officer and co-founder of Kokuma, shared with Beauty Premium News:
"This is not a traditional self-tanner that colors the surface of the skin. With TONASULIKE-P, the effect is not immediate, but it delivers a natural tan in just 20 days without UV exposure."
He also added that the tan lasts as long as the product is applied, making it a safe and sustainable alternative to UV-based tanning.
According to Kokuma, tests on human skin explants revealed that TONASULIKE-P is well-tolerated by human skin. After just 10 days of treatment, results showed a significant increase in melanin content and an elevation of tyrosinase-positive cells, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis.
This patented ingredient is set to enter the market soon, allowing cosmetic brands to incorporate it into their formulations.
With TONASULIKE-P, the industry can look forward to a new era of self-tanning—one that delivers natural results without the unpleasant scent of traditional self-tanners or the damaging effects of UV exposure.
